If you've ever unrolled a bolt of fabric and noticed a tightly woven, sometimes printed strip running along both lengthwise sides, you've already met the selvage. Sometimes it is a series of threads and holes, other times it is a glue like substance. All of it is normal, and necessary. It's one of those details that separates a fabric novice from a seasoned maker and once you understand it, you'll never look at a bolt the same way again.
What Is a Selvage Edge?
The selvage (also spelled "selvedge") is the edge of a fabric, formed naturally during the knitting or finishing process as a way to attach the fabric to the finishing machines for brushing, dying or setting.
The word comes from "self-edge" — and that's exactly what it is: the fabric finishing itself.
What You'll Find on a Selvage
Depending on the fabric and manufacturer, selvage edges often include:
- Fabric information — fiber content, country of origin, care instructions
- Color dots — showing every color used in the print or weave
- Brand or mill name — especially common in premium and heritage textiles
- Dye lot numbers — useful for matching fabric across multiple cuts
For natural fabrics like organic cotton, hemp, or bamboo, the selvage can also be a mark of quality — tighter, more consistent weaving at the edge often signals a well-constructed cloth throughout. The edge doesn't give much information in knits other than how they were attached to the finishing machines.
Should You Cut Off the Selvage?
Generally, yes — for most sewing projects. The selvage is woven more tightly than the rest of the fabric, which means it can pucker, distort seams, or cause garments to pull. It's best practice to trim it before cutting your pattern pieces.
That said, there are exceptions:
- Quilting -some quilters intentionally incorporate selvage strips for texture and information
- Selvage denim -a premium category unto itself, where the selvage edge is a hallmark of quality and is deliberately left visible on finished jeans
- Decorative use-selvage edges with beautiful typography or color palettes are increasingly used in bookbinding, labels, and textile art
- Starch or glue edges - best to cut these edges off as they won't become softer over time.
- Thread and hole edges - best to remove these to make the garment look better.
Selvage and Fabric Quality
At Nature's Fabrics, our bamboo, hemp, and organic cotton rolls are woven to tight tolerances — and the selvage reflects that. It's one of the small details we think matters.
Ready to put it to use? Browse our current fabric selection and find your next project material in our shop.