Sewing Tips and Tricks

FIBER TYPES


  • Wool is shorn from the sheep. 
  • Cotton is grown as a crop, picked, cleaned, spun.
  • Hemp is grown as a crop. Can be semi synthetic.
  • Bamboo or Bamboo Rayon is a manufactured fiber.    
  • Rayon is a manufactured fiber made from wood pulp.
  • Modal is a manufactured fiber made from beech trees.
  • Tencel or lyocell is a cellulose fiber, made from eucalyptus trees.

GSM


  • Grams per square meter
  • The larger the number the heavier the fabric is
  • A good sweatshirt fleece would be at least 300 gsm
  • A man’s undershirt about 120gsm

 

Give and Stretch

  • One-way: stretch on the crossgrain.
  • Two way: stretch in 2 directions.
  • Four-way: Stretch in all directions, across, lengthwise and on bias.
  • Stretch matters-patterns designed for knits generally have fewer pieces and less shaping details. 
  • Woven patterns will not allow for the stretch that knits do.
  • Fold your fabric perpendicular to  the selvage.

 

  • Hold the fold over the ruler, placing one edge at 0, the other at 6”.

 

  • Stretch the fold until the fabric is taunt, note measurement.

If it stretches from 6 to 6 1/2" = 8%

If it stretches from 6" to 7" = 16%

If it stretches from 6" to 8" = 30%

If it stretches from 6" to 9" = 50%

If it stretches from 6” to 12” = 100% 

 

Along the grain (in the length):


Fold your fabric parallel with the finished edge of the fabric (selvage), away from the edge

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

fabric chart

 

 knit types chart

10 minute skirt pattern