Which Fabric?

Each day we get several calls, and I got to thinking, if people are calling with these questions, then I am sure there are others thinking the same thing, but they are not picking up the phone. So I will try to start outlining some of my conversations.

Todays call came in early. Someone looking for some samples. She wants to make Vogue 1257 and she is thinking purple wool jersey. So, how will wool work when a knit is called for? Is there another fabric that may be better? What other options are there?

We spoke of the benefits of wool jersey, about maybe using bamboo spandex jersey, and what qualities she wanted for her dress.

Wool jersey is a timeless classic for a dress. It is an elegant and often ignored choice for the home sewer. Wool comes in as many weights and styles as any other fabric. It has many benefits: it sews easily, most often does not ravel, absorbs moisture, and with the stretch gives a flattering line.

Give wool a look next time.

 

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How to dye wool fabric.

I get a ton of emails asking how do I do this? Dye my wool interlock. So I will post the instructions here, in case you get searching and don’t find what you need elsewhere.

When I dye wool, I used to felt it first then dye it. But now I have decided that it is a wasted step. That is just my preference.  The blend will shrink a lot. Like about 13″ to the yard.

I put the pot of water on the stove and add the dye. Stir in the dye and let it go a bit.

Then I toss in the DRY wool.

Stir it up and bring it to a boil. Really, a boil. You don’t have to stir a lot while waiting for the boil. I stir now and then, but nothing wild.

Once it is boiling, I add 1 cup of vinegar, while stirring like mad. I stir about 5 minutes and then see if there is still color in the water. I take out a clear measuring cup full of hot water to see if it is clear. If it isn’t, I add more vinegar, stirring like mad again. It should clear after 5-10 minutes. If not, more vinegar. Do not run the risk of the whole thing boiling over, when you add the vinegar the whole thing will foam up, be careful. Your stove will not like it if it gets water all down in the electronics. Ask me how I know.

After I am satisfied I throw it in the washer just to SPIN. Spin it out and toss it in the dryer for 30 minutes on high heat.

Wash mashine dying is a little different but the principles are the same. I first prepare the dye bath. I like to use the wash machine, so I run nearby water to get it hot, then fill the washer to the desired level with super hot water. A lot of times I will turn up my hot water tank so that the dye will set well. Ok, now that the washer is filling with hot, I get my powdered acid dye and add 1/2 teaspoon dry powder to the water. Let the machine finish filling and then agitate it for about 2 minutes. This distributes the dye, and makes sure all the clumps of dye are broken up. I add the fabric to the machine while it is agitating and let it agitate about 5 minutes. At that point I check the wash to be sure everything looks ok. I then add 1 cup of vinegar, and reset the timer to run another 12 minutes or so. I let it agitate 10 minutes, and then reset and let it agitate some more. After the time has elapsed, I spin the water out and put it right into the dryer on high heat for 30 minutes. This helps set the dye, and finishes felting the wool. I DO NOT wash or felt the wool fabric prior to dying. I also DO NOT use any soap in the dye bath. I was doing this before and I got a lot more streaking than I do by omitting this step.

These same steps can be used for wool jersey, wool crepe or wool rib.

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Black wool jersey…

We most always have a good selection of black wool jersey. Who would have thought that black wool jersey could be such a good seller here at Nature’s Fabrics. We carry this wool fabric with spandex, in heavy jersey, in regular jersey. We also carry a black wool interlock, washable black interlock and a black wool blend. All of our black wools are top quality for garments, diaper covers and whatever your need is. A wool little black dress would be the greatest thing this holiday.  Shown below is the Butterick pattern number 5675, a great all around dress.

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